Triumph Rover V8 Forum

[JeffYoung]

Haven't posted much here in a while, sorry guys. Been very busy converting the ITS TR8 over to a fuel injected motor. We have to use the stock plenum, etc., but the ECU is free and I have a Haltech unit.

I'm making about 175 whp and 200 wtq on the 3.5 with stock pistons, cam, .020 overbore, and some minor gasket matching on the heads.

After a LOT of teething issues, have had two totally trouble free weekends, and nearly won a race this past weekend at VIR. I started 4th of 10 (we qualified in the wet), got to second on lap 2, and took the lead on lap 4. I led about 1/2 the race, and lost the lead with a couple of laps to go, but finished on the winning ITS RX7's bumper.

We are getting there, the car can win against very strong SCCA ITS fields. This 10 car field had 2 VERY fast RX7s (I beat one), a fast 280z, and a slower 944S, 260z and an E30 325i.

It's fun taking the 8 up against more "modern" competition. Even with the live rear and the drums, the car can be competitive.

[92RRRANDALL]

Jeff

If you need any custom maching or fabrication let me know. Maybe you can look at my rear drum brakes. I know virtually nothing about drum brakes. Have a set of Kevlar shoes for them not yet installed.

Here is a recent project I just completed. Bosch Generation3 type injectors to go in the TR8.


Here is another recent project. Phenolic spacer for Lucas type intake manifolds(reduces temp of plenum chamber.


Here is another recent project. Teflon gasket set(reduces intake temp) for the Bosch type rover V8s.


Randall

[TheWedgeshop.com]

Jeff talking about Modern cars, I had a run in against a SL600 V12 on my way to Stowe VT. All I can say is I'm glad they chip those at 150mph. He did come back to ride behind me later, I think he was trying to see what kind of car he just lost to with Antique plates on it. TR8"s still rule the road

Thanks
TheWedgeshop.com
_________________
www.TheWedgeshop.com

[JeffYoung]

Woody, always good when something like that happens. A shame these cars didn't see a full development cycle.....

Randall, NICE work.....e-mail me if you want to talk rear drums....they can be made to work pretty well, but not sure if you even want/need to do that on the street. For a car on the street with "free" brakes, I'd spend the dollars on the front with a good set up, and then ditch the rear drums for discs.

Here's some race pics from last weekend. Click on "Group 3" - at the bottom right of the page there is a nice 3-4 picture sequence of me leading the 2nd place (at the time) RX7.

http://www.photoreflect.com/PR3/thumbpage.aspx?e=5497907

Here's some race pics from a month ago at our regional championship race. Go to Group 4, page 2, and pictures 101 and up for a good sequence of a nice battle I had with another fast RX7 (guy finally spun inside me, see pics, closer than I thought at hte time!)

http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/ThumbPage.aspx?e=5403146&g=0OX0001K04

[Underdog80]

Well, I would like to hear about rear drums too. I have uprated frts with vented, sloted rotors and ebc red pads. Bias valve dialed full open to the rear. Works fine on the street but the frts overheat quickly at the track.

I bought a set of MGB rear wheel cyls which are larger bore. not installed yet. Also was considering some sort of lining upgrade. My thinking is if I can get the rear doing more work, the frts won't get overheated as quick.
Rear discs would be nice but not sure I want to get into all that for a few track days a year.

Any ideas/thoughts?

BTW, congradulations Jeff and impressive work Randall.

[JeffYoung]

The best track shoe linings out there for our cars are Carbotech. They are pricey ($150 a set) and last maybe 3-4 race weekends. Plus, they swell on first use and if not set up right will basically "lock" the car down until they wear a bit with rolling resistance.

You can ventilated the rear drum plate and even run a duct to it. The modified prop valve is good; even better is to remove the stock valve and put in an adjustable.

But, you will still be working the fronts hard. As you know, the stock setup (whcih I have to use) stinks but ducting and a rotor hat and decent pads and I can make it last a few weekends. Failure mode is always burnt caliper seals and leaking calipers.

For you with vented rotors, it's a bit easier. You just need a duct to the center of the rotor instead of a rotor hat.

Oh -- 15" wheels and removing the backing plates entirley will help cool the fronts too, if you don't mind doing that to your street car.

[92RRRANDALL]

Wish the Wedge Shop would offer the Ford rear axle assembly with disc brakes. Could start saving my money if it was available.

On the street I do not even use the brakes very much. Just want the drums and the rare TR8 rear end parts off the car. Afraid to floor it or burn rubber for fear of blowing the diff. E-brake barely holds on a slope.

Randall

[Underdog80]